Overview
The Budget
- 1 person /$11,000/ 28 Days
- $120AUD travel insurance
- $2,400AUD return flights Brisbane to Frankfurt (Singapore Airlines / Lufthansa)
- $150AUD spending money per day
- $5,800AUD for accommodation
Hotels
- Hotel Scala Frankfurt City (Frankfurt)
- Youth Hostel Luxembourg City (Luxembourg City)
- Zurich Youth Hostel (Zurich)
- Antares Hotel Concorde (Best Western) (Milan)
- Hotel Arno Bellariva (Florence)
- Mercure Roma Corso Trieste (Rome)
- Ibis Budapest Heroes Square (Budapest)
Destinations
Frankfurt, germany
With COVID measures down and borders open, I took the chance to head back to Europe, this time in summer. Unfortunately, flights were still massively higher compared to normal, but I managed to get some solidly priced flights in and out of Frankfurt, Germany. The plan was to land in Germany and just loop around the alps on train over the month and arrive back in Frankfurt.
I arrived in Frankfurt early afternoon and surprisingly it was crazy hot so jumped straight on the train into the city centre. Frankfurt was a surprise compared to the other cities I’ve visited in Europe; it looked like a city back home in Australia. After checking in, I had a little wander around the neighbourhood; the city has the remnants of its fort walls as a parkland that encircles the city centre.
After heading out on a reasonably big night, I started off on what I thought was a late start to the day but forgot that Germany doesn’t seem to start its days until late morning. I walked over to the old town – not the most impressive compared to many others in Europe but a nice spot, where you can find a nice coffee shop to sit, eat a pretzel and americano and people watch.
After a while of this, I wandered the cobbled streets to take in the quaint old shops, and the distinctive atmosphere of Europe in summer.
Frankfurt old town
From here, I headed to the Iron Bridge (Eisener Steg) for a view of the old town and the modern skyline behind and the Main River. Meandering along the riverfront, I stopped by for a drink at one of the local cafe just in from the river before eventually making it to the Städel Museum. The museum houses hundreds of years of art with a lean to local pieces. Interestingly, many jewish artists with some sad history.
The next day, was a bit slower, I headed to the main shopping street to grab some lunch – surprisingly mostly healthy options at the local restaurants, before heading to the surprisingly discrete Goethe Museum. It’s an obvious recommendation to check out the city’s most famous resident. And the art and history pieces are extremely interesting. After a surprising amount of time, I headed to the Kleinmarkthalle (Market Hall) to see some local foods. Whilst not as historical as expected but some tasty food options to try. I slowly walked across the city past the opera hall and down to the Main Tower. This offered a great opportunity to get 360 degree views of Frankfurt and beyond to the rural surrounds.
View north-west of Frankfurt.
Luxembourg City, Luxembourg
I didn’t prebook any parts of my journey, so decided to wrap up Frankfurt, and head to Luxembourg City, a small principality to the west of Frankfurt. The train trip was surprisingly long with a fair few interchanges but not terrible. I arrived in the city centre of Luxembourg in the late morning and was immediately hit by how quiet but tidy it was compared to Frankfurt. It probably didn’t help that it was a Sunday – but it wasn’t very busy apart from a few other visitors wandering the streets.
My hostel was a little bit from the centre so made my way through the heat and accidentally stumbled on to the casemates and walls of the old city. These old fortifications surround the serene small river valley below and provided an opportunity to get your bearings. The fortifications had a few interesting information signs – in German (may have been Luxembourgish) and French, but no English for some reason. Some primary school French, and enough vocab in English gave me the gist though.
Quaint Luxembourg City from the casements.
After settling in at my hostel – I set out to explore some more on foot. The city is very compact but somehow manages to pack in so many gardens and bushland reserves as well as quaint 1800’s homes. Eventually, I caught up with a friend who was staying in the city for a while, who took me to a local cafe/ pub for dinner and explained that Luxembourg is a city that is very suburban and very expensive so great for a day trip but not for a stand-alone visit. And had to agree, I headed back to the hostel to pack for the next leg of my trip and some sleep.
Zurich, Switzerland
I arrived at the Luxembourg Central station expecting I wouldn’t have any problems jumping on a train down to Zurich. I was wrong. I managed to get a train that was expected to take 6 hours and there were no seats left – so I got to pay for the privilege of hanging out in the dining car. To be honest, it wasn’t terrible, just ordered a few coffees, read a book and watched the scenery pass by. Until the train broke down in Basel, requiring a delay and a change to a much older train but hey I got a seat. Eventually, in the late afternoon (yes it took almost 8 hours in the end), I exited Zurich Central Station.
Immediately, I was struck by the liveliness of the city – perhaps in contrast to Luxembourg but nonetheless, it was full of tourists and locals enjoying the sunny evening. My hostel was a bit in the suburbs so made my way there, had a shower then grabbed a lime bike and started cycling back into the city.
I spent a fair chunk of the sunny evening just walking through the streets and side streets and along the beautiful lake with vistas to the hills and mountains beyond. before finding a spot for dinner and hanging out with a few other visitors for drinks.
The next day I booked a tour up to the Alps – specifically Mount Titlis. Mount Titlis is apparently a more accessible version of Jungfraujoch and arguably it looked to be the case. I caught the tour bus just near central station and we made our way out of Zurich and through the countryside, our first stop was at the Astrid Chapel, just outside Lucerne. This small chapel, perched on a lake was sadly in dedication to Astrid, Queen Consort of Belgians, who died in a car accident at that location. After a short (but sufficient) time to explore, we were back on the bus, slowly we left the lakes and green pastures behind and entered stunning little valleys with traditional houses and herds of cattle jangling their bells.
We were dropped off at the base of the cable car which took us higher and higher up the mountain side and required a few changes including into a rotating cable car which provided 360 degree views. Eventually we arrived at the top of the mountain with even more stunning views over the snow capped ranges. It was also a comfortable 8 degrees compared to the 38 degree heatwave back in Zurich. The top of Mount Titlis provided the opportunity to walk through an ice cave and through the snow to some beautiful walks and look outs. However, it was packed with tourists so wasn’t the serene experience you might expect.
After a while of exploring the mountain top and the local chocolate shop, we headed down and back on the bus for a stop off at Lucerne.
A view over to the Chapel Bridge in Lucerne
This town was an unexpected spot, beautiful views and some great historical spots including the Chapel Bridge – a wooden bridge draped in flowers crossing one of the Reuss River. There were quaint little alleys and side streets and churches as well as bars and restaurants by the river . A spot I could have spent more than one evening in, but sadly had to make my way back to Zurich. Thinking that the next day I would make my way down to my next stop.
MIlan, Italy
The train trip down to Milan isn’t a long one and, for a change didn’t need any changeovers or hanging out in the dining car. The train passed through a multitude of tunnels at high speed and as we got closer to the border, passed some stunning lakes and lakeside villages including Lake Como. After a couple of hours, I arrived at the absolutely architecturally stunning Milano Centrale. This station alone is a sight to see with huge vaulted ceilings and murals and on a magnificent scale. I eventually pulled myself away and went to my hotel just outside the historical part of Milan.
As always, my first activity, was to just wander the city – Milan is not small so I generally made my way to the centre stopping off at cafes for iced coffees along the way. I eventually hit Porta Venezia, named one of the main roads into the city leading to cities around Italy, in this case the one to Venice. Here, I also explored a local modern art gallery and a break from the heat in the large park that makes up a chunk of the suburb.
I then made it to the heart of Milan, home to some stunning architecture including the classic Galleria Vitttoriao Emanuele II. It was crowded but something you have to see in the area. I hung around here at a local cafe and people watched for a bit before catching up with a local, who showed me around a bit more; we walked down to the Sforzesco Castle
The Piazza Castello
We slowly walked around the parklands surrounding the castle, including some people watching before getting on a historical tram to a nearby metro. From here we headed to Naviglio, a canal district to the south-west of central Milan. The drinks here are cheap and readily available, with so many bars to choose from. Unfortunately, its also a popular hangout for mosquitos – but one can of mosquito spray is enough to set you right!
Verona, italy
The next day, I was planning on meeting a friend in the evening, so I decided to take a day trip. After debating between Venice and Verona, the English teacher in me went for fair Verona. Being about 160km away, it didn’t take too long on the high speed train and I arrived late morning.
From the train station, I and many other tourists walked down past the modern part of town and eventually hit the gates of the old city. Of course I headed straight for Juliet’s ‘house’, whilst a bit of a tourist trap with a big line, it’s something I just had to do. With that out of the way I decided to explore the wonky alleys and streets of Verona, eventually I made my way to the river and crossed a bridge built by the romans (Ponte Pietra) and still in use to cross over. On this side of the river I headed up some stairs and made it up to the Castel San Pietro. This provided the perfect vantage point to set up for lunch and to take in the town… and to be deafened by cicadas.
Verona from one of its Roman-built bridges
Slowly I made my way back through the city, stopping off at the occasional church of interest and the taking in the old coliseum before jumping back on the train to Milan for dinner and drinks in the evening.
MIlan, Italy
After recovering from a rough night, I decided to take it relatively slow and I caught up with another tourist and decided to check out Milan Duomo. I booked the stair access tickets online and walked up to the rooftop – it was shocking people can walk on the roof and ramparts but was a great experience with views over the city. I also grabbed a audio tour and it was worth it. Eventually, the tour took me down into the cathedral, with its stunning ceiling, and acoustics which I got to experience as soon as I entered. The duomo entry was also built over a Roman temple and street which we got to go down into – just fascinating to see the layers of history and civilisation in the city. The tickets also included access to the Museo del Duomo di Milano and is great value to see the history of building the duomo as well as catholic art pieces and pieces of former cathedrals and churches.
On my last day, I decided to split my time between some shopping and art. The shopping options in Milan are undoubtedly top tier, but it was a long trip so I was largely a window shopper and stopped into Zara for most of my needs. After a while of this I headed to the Pinacoteca di Brera, an art gallery located in a stunning structure with some beautiful historical art pieces. Being Italy, many of them leaned on a catholic/ religious slant however the history and beauty of them were remarkable. After wrapping up a pretty decent day, I headed back to the hotel to pack for my next stop.
Florence, Italy
The high-speed rail took me down to Florence in no time, and when I arrived it was hit by the difference in atmosphere. You can tell Florence is smaller but rich in culture and history. My hotel was in an old 1800s riverside home on the other side of the historical district, so I walked along the river and everywhere I looked was a beautiful vista. After checking in, once again I wandered through the city, and as a much more compact city, it was easy to wander down alleys and side streets and stumble on a landmark. Being near 40 degrees though, I kept to the shade and had more gelati than I needed. For lunch I grabbed a massive sandwich from All’antico. This shop has lines out the door and no wonder, it was delicious. Also there are multiple shops near each other so if there is a line at one; just go to the other.
Later that night, I went to dinner and tried a Bistecca a la florentina (was very rare) and then headed out to a few bars and had got to know some of the many many other tourists in Florence. I had a great time even though the bouncer at one establishment didn’t believe New Zealand was a real place and rejected my passport at first.
On day two, I booked tickets to see the Uffizi. Whilst the place could do with some air conditioning especially in summer it was overflowing with art and history including the infamous Venus de Milo. But there is so much more to see, that I think multiple visits would be needed. After a fair few hours I headed to Florence’s Duomo and grabbed some lunch and watched life roll by.
An upward shot of the Florence Duomo at sunset.
After a long lunch, I headed across to the Ponte Vecchio, while a beautiful old bridge, you do have to dodge the many hawkers. The other side of Florence is a difference pace but has some attractions of its own including the Palatine Gallery and the gardens and the Piazzale Michelangelo for amazing views over the Florence. This side of Florence also quickly becomes villas and vineyards and can recommend a little wander this way.
Cinque Terre, ITaly
The next day, I decided I’d go to check out Cinque Terra. I’d known about this place since I was a kid and always wanted to visit. It was a fair time by train with no high speed connection but made it my late morning.
A glimpse of Vernazza from the walking trail.
I arrived then caught the train to the farthest village, Monterosso al Mare. From here I briefly walked around the city before starting on the trail connecting all the villages. The trail hugs the coast and hills and takes you up and through the steep vineyards and pump houses with views over the mediterranean before reconnecting at each village. I grabbed a souvenir book for some context and key sights along the way. It was incredibly hot so take lots of water if in summer (you get free access to toilets with your train ticket) take the time to walk this trail. It takes a fair while and I ran out of time and had to rejoin the train journey back from the third village.
I arrived back in Florence quite late and a bit exhausted so crashed a bit early in preparation for the next day. I arose reasonably early (although enough time in Europe meant that early now meant 730 in the morning) and headed to organise my train trip to Rome and tickets to see Michelangelo’s David. There I screwed up a bit. Turns out everyone wants to see Michelangelo’s David and I should have booked that first so missed out. Instead, I hopped on the train and headed down to the Eternal City.
Rome, Italy
Arriving at Rome, I was all excitement – I was and still am obsessed with Ancient Rome and to be there at the heart of the actual place was something else. My first destination after dropping off my bags at the hotel was the Circus Maximus. I always found this to be an undervalued site – the history and scale here is something else, although I have to admit upon arriving it had busy roads on most sides and only small pieces survived. I, of course, still had a wander around, touching the ancient stonework. I then moved on to the infamous Monumento a Vittoria Emmanuele II. A patriotic and magnificent and more modern landmark of the city. After this I made my way to explore the Palatine Hill after dodging the hawkers, I booked a ticket tour online which also included the Coliseum. This – to see first hand was something else – while the tour guide was well intentioned the info was pretty superficial but it got me in for an amazing memory.
All of these sites were clustered together which made it very easy to see but I ran out of daylight and was extremely hungry so caught the metro back to my hotel to eat and sleep before the next day.
Pompeii, Italy
The number one site had to see in Italy, Pompeii was a few hours south from Rome by high speed train. The train dropped me off at Naples before I had to catch another slower coastal train to the site.
View over Pompeii
A shot inside one of the remnant shops of Pompeii
Pompeii is located in a conserved archaeological parkland in the town/ commune of Pompeii. And is easy to get to – I grabbed my ticket and entered the outskirts of the ancient Roman town. It’s shocking the scale of what has been preserved, the streets and divot marks in them, the shops and amphorae storage. Particular major houses have been cleaned up with the friezes and terrazzos conserved. I recommend the audio tour to provide insight on all these amazing areas. The Forum is probably the most interesting to be able to feel what the heart of the city was like but the city’s own coliseum was just as fascinating. One of the most famous sites is the brothel, which was surprisingly small and perhaps a bit overhyped.
I spent hours at Pompeii before finally heading back to Rome, late afternoon and crashed early after a very exciting day.
Rome, Italy
The next day was an early one – it was one of the few things I booked early as I had heard I’d miss out otherwise. It was an early morning, pre-open tour of the Vatican City. This I cannot recommend more strongly as I went back in once the Vatican Museum opened and it was packed.
The tour took us through the museum in a small group, highlighting key artefacts as well as background to the architecture and the structures, including the Sistine Chapel before finally ending with a breakfast in one of the building quadrangles.
The Vatican before opening
After breakfast, I went back to reinspect some of the items we missed and revisit some of my favourites before entering St Peter’s Basilica. And having gone to a catholic school as a kid, it was a bit strange to see the something spoken of so much finally in person. The scale of the structure and sculpture was amazing as well as the stunning construction of the basilica.
Eventually I left the basilica and onto the square, heading straight for the nearby Castel Sant’Angelo. I have to admit I wanted to see this site because of a certain Dan Brown book but nonetheless it was pretty fascinating to see in person and recommend a visit.
On my second day, I managed to pack in a fair few items off the itinerary, I began with a walk through Villa Borghese – a massive park to the north-east of the centre of Rome. This provided a respite from the heat and some views at the river end. Nearby this, I accidentally stumbled onto the Spanish steps and not going to lie, they were just steps but the knowing the history of some of the buildings nearby was more interesting including the sojourn of John Keats.
I then caught up with a fellow traveller to Rome and grabbed a late lunch including gelato of course. We then made our way past the Trevi Fountain, which was unfortunately insanely busy, and on to the Pantheon. The scale of this structure is amazing and that it has survived almost 2000 years is sublime.
My last day in Rome was a bit less packed as I had my second last leg of the journey, this time by air). I headed to the Barberini Palace to see modern and ancient art pieces and for some air conditioning as a break.
BUdapest, Hungary
My last stop was an ad-hoc addition, but a place I’d always wanted to visit, Budapest. My flight was delayed so I arrived at my hotel at about 1 in the morning, so it was a late start to my day.
I began the first day, finding a bakery, which wasn’t too hard but I had to find one with cherry pastries. I found one just off the beautiful main boulevard, after catching the wooden understreet metro. After satiating myself, I went to the southern side of the city, unfortunately the beautiful Széchenyi Chain Bridge was closed for repairs and maintenance so I went via the more modern bridge further down.
The streetscape of Budapest
I began with a stop at the citadella, hiking up the hill for a view at the somewhat muddy peak, I then traversed down and made my way over to the Fisherman’s Bastion. A stunning spot with Buda Castle right next to it, here I wandered around the grounds including the gardens and small spaces all around it. As I made my way back to the Pest side of the city, I booked a ticket to check out the stunning hungarian parliament for the next day before I hunted down some food for dinner.
Day two involved a little less walking, I went down to the Hungarian Parliament for a tour, which is a must-do. This place seems to embody Hungarian history and some pride, its a beautiful structure and surprisingly recent. On the tour I saw some similarities to the British parliament which I later learnt was one of its inspirations. Later on in the day, I met up with a local to the area who took me through some of the river side walks and on to Margit Sziget, an island in the middle of the Danube that is a park and recreation space. In the summer evening they put on a musical themed fountain show which was a great sight to see.
The Hungarian Parliament at night from Margit Sziget.
My hotel was located on Heroes Square, which is also right next to Széchenyi Thermal Baths – I went quite early to avoid the crowds, which meant it was largely me and the elderly but still a relaxing experience and I could see the draw especially in winter. After a wander around the streets and parklands again, I headed to the train station to head back to Frankfurt and my flight home.
The Other Travel Guide 